Our friend Alan Murchison is not a man to do things by halves. Michelin-starred chef, nutritionist to the pros, World and European duathlon champion, owner of the most beautiful dogs in all of Spain (see more below) - and author of three of the finest cycling cookbooks you’ll find anywhere.
Alan lives in the cycling hotspot of Girona, so who better to celebrate our Escape capsule by giving us the lowdown on all the insider’s secrets, with everything from the best places to shop and eat to the best taxi drivers in town.
True to form, Alan’s pulled out all the stops here - this really is the Ultimate Insider’s Guide.
It’s so comprehensive we’re publishing it in two parts. Today we’ll be looking at the riding, the general vibe and how to get there, followed in Part Two with Alan’s guide to the finest places to eat, drink and hang out.
And if you’re inspired to visit this wonderful Catalan city and a cyclist whooshes past you like a bullet on a Specialized Shiv - well, you know who that is.
Over to you, Alan…
Cycling Mecca and old school Catalan town… here is my local’s guide to getting the most out of your trip to ‘G town’.
I have been coming to Girona for over 10 years and moved here permanently in 2023. So know the place pretty well.
If New York is referred to as ‘the city that never sleeps’, Girona should be ‘the town that always likes a nap’.
The Girona Vibe
Catalan attitude to life is pretty chilled, borderline on horizontal. Time keeping is not a priority and don’t expect a fast paced frenetic scene, this is not NYC.
Service is relaxed and not that attentive but the people working in the service industry are lovely. Most speak English. Seeing daytime drinking is not uncommon but drunkenness is rare.
Also remember Catalans don’t class themselves as Spanish. You won’t see a Spanish flag here anymore than you would see a Union Jack flag in Scotland!
They have a very non commercial attitude to life, so don’t expect a hard sell on anything, its all very tranquillo. Tipping is not really a thing, so a little cash tip goes a long way.
Crime is not really a problem however bikes go missing a lot and tourist cars can be targeted for even a iPhone charger. Just be aware and apply common sense.
Attitude to cyclists is very good and on the roads you will encounter a relaxed and courteous attitude almost everywhere. There is some local resentment to the amount of cyclists in town at certain times, again just be aware that this is their home. In the old town there is some one way systems and going the wrong way on a bike might get you a fine, if in doubt walk your bike and look out for signs - and riding with headphones likely to get you a fine too.
The Cycling: Road
Amazing. World Tour riders a-plenty based here…. Some of the road rides you should get in (but there are many many more):
Mare de Due del Mont - a beast of a climb… Santuari El Far - another beauty.
Coast loop is a must, do it clockwise. Sant Gregori and Olot loop.
Rocacobra… iconic climb, not my favourite but should be done once to tick it off.
The Cycling: Gravel
Outrageous.
The scene here is a bit of a Mecca.
Essentials: the Traka loops.
But there’s something for absolutely everyone here from princess gravel to really tech stuff.
The Cycling: XC MTB
Playground of World Cup MTB racers.
The amount of World Cup riders now based in Girona is growing almost weekly. Every top team in MTB has used the area for training camps in the last 12 months.
Santa Coloma de Farners is like a bike park with something for everyone.
Els-the Gavarres - based on the doorstep - is a literal maze of trails, follow heat maps and expect to be challenged, literally 100s of KMs of trails.
Bike Shops, Gyms & Maintenance
Spares and sports nutrition are expensive here, so bring what you need and only top up in an emergency.
Bike shops are used to tourist traffic and have quick turn around for basic jobs. Bribing mechanics to quickly fix your bike with coffee and cakes is a essential when in Girona…! Also a lot of places don’t do mechanic stuff at the weekend because they are out riding themselves. Rental bikes are widely available.
Decent places for the spannering: Service Course • DOS off track • Eat, Sleep, Cycle
Gyms:
North 3. A quiet boutique gym in the centre of town, they sell daily, weekly & monthly passes. Always quiet and has a really nice atmosphere. No heavy lifting vibe and a chilled out place. Like it here.
Forca. Anyone needing massage or maintenance, place to go. In the old town and used by a lot of pro athletes and locals.
Getting There & Getting Around
Barcelona airport is pretty easy to navigate with regular flights from all over the world. Alternatively if you can get flights, Girona airport is small and close to the city but flights are limited.
When in Girona you don’t really need a car and rentals can be crazy expensive depending on the season.
There are two ways of getting public transport to G town from Barcelona.
• Train from Barcelona Sants, as little as 14 euro first class, 39 min journey on the fast train. Really easy and zero stress with a bike box... honestly. Book via Trainline app. Probably the best public transport you will ever find.
• Taxi from Barcelona airport to train station at Barcelona Sants, easiest options, around 20 euro.
Or - get a cab all the way. Call main man Taxi Tony. He is based in Girona and his business is cycling transport.
WhatsApp him on +34 680242598 and tell him I sent you.
He is super reliable and can accommodate bikes and riders with ease. He is used by a lot of the pro riders based in Girona. 150 euro each way which makes sense if there are a few of you.
… So there you have it. Massive thanks to Alan for giving us a severe case of wanderlust.
Keep your eyes peeled for Part Two, when Alan will be taking us on a guided tour of all the best foodie hotspots in this wonderful city - and if you’ve never been, get that flight booked. It really is a cyclist’s paradise.
And whether you’re planning a trip, remembering that amazing riding weekend away, or just adding it to the bucket list we’ve got some perfect Handmade Cyclist Girona swag for you.
